{"id":54,"date":"2021-01-26T17:19:52","date_gmt":"2021-01-26T22:19:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/colouring-products\/"},"modified":"2021-02-19T13:42:32","modified_gmt":"2021-02-19T18:42:32","slug":"colouring-products","status":"publish","type":"chapter","link":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/colouring-products\/","title":{"raw":"3.1 Colouring Products","rendered":"3.1 Colouring Products"},"content":{"raw":"Now comes time to choose a colouring product to use. But first, recap the necessary steps that got you to this point!\r\n<ol>\r\n \t<li>Assess hair and scalp\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0[pb_glossary id=\"205\"]Porosity[\/pb_glossary], [pb_glossary id=\"207\"]elasticity[\/pb_glossary] and[pb_glossary id=\"208\"] texture[\/pb_glossary]<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Existing[pb_glossary id=\"164\"] level[\/pb_glossary] and [pb_glossary id=\"220\"]tone[\/pb_glossary]<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Percentage of grey<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Perform a thorough client consultation\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Determine target level and tone<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Discuss maintenance, commitment, and budget<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\nNext, you must:\r\n<ol start=\"3\">\r\n \t<li>Select an appropriate colouring product based on:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Lift or deposit<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Grey coverage<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Hair assessment<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Lasting ability<\/li>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0Application technique<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Consider existing tone\/ underlying pigment\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>\u00a0[pb_glossary id=\"199\"]Enhance[\/pb_glossary] or [pb_glossary id=\"200\"]neutralize[\/pb_glossary]<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Select appropriate tools and supplies for selected application technique<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\n<h1>Depositing, or Going Darker<\/h1>\r\nLet\u2019s first compare options for depositing, or going darker:\r\n<table style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 294px;\" border=\"0\"><caption>Options for Depositing (Going Darker)<\/caption>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\r\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 40%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Oxidative<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 40%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Non-oxidative<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Demi-permanent<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Semi-permanent<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Temporary<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">pH<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">9\u201311 +<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20139<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20138<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20138<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Regrowth<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Yes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Subtle<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Grey hair<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Full coverage<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Blending<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Light blending<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Lasting ability*<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Until colour grows out<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4\u20136 weeks<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">2\u20134 weeks<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Until hair is shampooed<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Mixing ratio[footnote]Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturers guidelines.[\/footnote]<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">1:1<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">2:1<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No mixing required<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No mixing required<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Processing time[footnote]Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.[\/footnote]<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">30\u201340 minutes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">20\u201330 minutes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">20\u201330 minutes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">0\u201320 minutes<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 132px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Uses\/Ideal hair types<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Grey coverage<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Course hair<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Resistant porosity<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Grey blending<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fine - coarse hair<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Normal - porous<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Light grey blending<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fine - medium hair<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Normal - compromised<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Vivid colours<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fast and fun colour change<\/li>\r\n \t<li>All hair types<\/li>\r\n \t<li>May stain porous hair<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Techniques<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Root retouch<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Global colour<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Lowlights<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Shadow root<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Drop root<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Toning with base break<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Root retouch<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Global colour<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Colour balance<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Lowlights<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Shadow root<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Drop root<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Toning<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Root retouch<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Global colour<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Colour balance<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Toning<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Vivid\/pastel tones<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Vivid\/pastel tones<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fashion placement<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n*Lasting ability is calculated under ideal circumstances. Durability can be affected by:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Porosity \u2013 hair that is overly porous tends to lose artificial colour and fade more quickly.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Products \u2013 shampoos and products that are not formulated for coloured hair may cause fading. Hair that is frequently heat styled without heat protective products will also fade more quickly.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Environment \u2013 factors such as sun exposure, pollution and poor water quality will all have an adverse effect on colour durability.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\nSome additional factors to think about when considering hair type and condition:\r\n\r\nDepositing\u00a0colour on healthy, medium textured hair is usually a pretty straightforward and predictable process. This is because the condition of\u00a0this hair type does not generally have any porosity concerns, which means you may follow\u00a0the manufacturers guidelines for your colour line to achieve optimal results.\r\n<h2>Fine Hair Considerations<\/h2>\r\nWhen depositing colour\/going darker on fine hair:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Fine hair is generally not resistant to absorbing colour. Choose a colouring product with a lower pH, such as Semi or Demi-Permanent, to maintain the integrity of the hair strand.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fine hair tends to process darker than the intended level, especially if [pb_glossary id=\"211\"]extreme porosity[\/pb_glossary] is present. It is recommended to formulate a colour that is one level lighter than the desired level.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Fine hair that has been previously treated with oxidative colour products is more likely to be highly porous. A colouring product that is too alkaline will swell the already compromised hair strand and result in breakage or further damage.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h2>Coarse Hair Considerations<\/h2>\r\nWhen depositing colour\/ going darker on coarse hair:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Coarse hair with [pb_glossary id=\"209\"]resistant porosity[\/pb_glossary] requires a higher level of developer, and a higher amount of ammonia within the formula in order to swell the hair strand and open up the cuticle layers effectively. Opt for an [pb_glossary id=\"213\"]oxidative colour[\/pb_glossary], with a 10 or 20vol developer. A [pb_glossary id=\"212\"]non-oxidative colour[\/pb_glossary] product, such as a semi permanent, may not process effectively.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Remember that coarse hair tends to process one level lighter than the intended level, especially if resistant porosity is also present. It is recommended to formulate a colour that is one level darker than the desired level.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\nHair with [pb_glossary id=\"215\"]uneven porosity[\/pb_glossary] must be formulated carefully, as each differing section will absorb and process colour differently.\u00a0Generally speaking, more than one colour formula is advised in this case in order to achieve an even end result.\r\n<h2>Existing Colour Considerations<\/h2>\r\nBecause the final colour result is the result of [pb_glossary id=\"189\"]existing colour[\/pb_glossary] + [pb_glossary id=\"197\"]artificial colour[\/pb_glossary], you should take into account the existing tone of the hair. If the client is a copper-tinged level 6 to begin with and would like to be a level 5, we will formulate differently depending on whether they desire a [pb_glossary id=\"168\"]warm[\/pb_glossary] result, a [pb_glossary id=\"170\"]neutral[\/pb_glossary] result, or a [pb_glossary id=\"169\"]cool[\/pb_glossary] result.\r\n\r\nThis is where the [pb_glossary id=\"193\"]Colour wheel[\/pb_glossary] comes in handy.\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-122\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/COLOUR-WHEEL2.jpg\" alt=\"Image of the colour wheel\" width=\"491\" height=\"461\" \/>\r\n\r\nIf the client would like a warm result, formulate with the warm side of the colour wheel, by adding some gold, copper, or red to the formula to enhance the warm tone present in the hair.\r\n\r\nIf you want to neutralize the tone of the hair while you deposit, use the colour wheel to choose which corrective pigment to add to your formula. Remember that [pb_glossary id=\"196\"]complimentary colours[\/pb_glossary]<em>, <\/em>colours that sit opposite on the colour wheel, neutralize each other. In the case of the copper-tinged level 6 client that would like to be a level 5, you would add some blue to your formula, as that is the complimentary shade used to neutralize orange.\r\n\r\nIf this client would like a cool result, you could add more of a blue-green tone to the formula, to over tone it. Keep in mind that this may create a \u201cmuddy\u201d or dull appearance, as warmth in the hair is what reflects light and gives it shine. In cases of extreme porosity, care must be taken to not add too much of the cool tone to your colour formula, as porous hair has a tendency to absorb cool tones and reject warmth.\r\n<h1>Lifting, or Lightening<\/h1>\r\nNow let\u2019s compare the options for lifting or lightening hair.\r\n<table style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 451px;\" border=\"0\"><caption>Options for Lifting or Lightening Hair<\/caption>\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<td style=\"width: 25%; height: 36px;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\r\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Oxidative Colour<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Bleach<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent or high-lift<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">On-scalp\r\nCream or oil<\/th>\r\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Off-scalp\r\nPowder or clay<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 55px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px;\" scope=\"row\">pH<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">9\u201311<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">~9[footnote]pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency[\/footnote]<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">~10\u201311[footnote]pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency[\/footnote]<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px;\" scope=\"row\">Levels of lift<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">1\u20134 (<strong>on virgin hair<\/strong>)<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4+ (on virgin or coloured hair)<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4+ (On virgin or coloured hair)<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 73px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px;\" scope=\"row\">Mixing ratio[footnote]Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.[\/footnote]<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1 permanent\r\n2:1 high-lift<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1\u20133:1<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1\u20133:1<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 73px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px;\" scope=\"row\">Processing time[footnote]Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.[\/footnote]<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">30\u201350 minutes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">Up to 1 hour<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">Up to 1 hour\r\nMax lift speed<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px;\" scope=\"row\">Conditioning agents<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">n\/a<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Yes<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr style=\"height: 178px;\">\r\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\" scope=\"row\">Techniques<\/th>\r\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Root retouch<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Global colour<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Highlights<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Base break<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<strong>On virgin hair<\/strong><\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Root retouch<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Global lightening<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Double-process blonde<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Highlights<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Gentle brightening of previous blonding services<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\r\n<ul class=\"small\">\r\n \t<li>Lightening of mids-ends<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Highlights<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Balayage<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Ombr\u00e9<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Hand painting<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\nSome additional factors to think about when considering hair type and condition:\r\n<h2>Fine Hair Considerations<\/h2>\r\nWhen lifting\/going lighter on fine hair:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Factor in any structural effects that previous colour services have had on the hair, such as a higher porosity or weakened state. A lightening product that is too alkaline will swell the already compromised hair strand and result in breakage or further damage.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>If using oxidative hair colour, choose the lowest level of [pb_glossary id=\"175\"]developer[\/pb_glossary] needed to achieve desired lift.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>If using a bleach product, use a low level developer, such as 10 or 20vol. Most colour lines will offer a gentler bleach option as well. If many levels of lift are required, it is best to use a low level developer for a longer period of time. Note: You may also opt to use a higher developer to bleach ratio, as this will reduce the pH of the lightening product.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h2>Coarse Hair Considerations<\/h2>\r\nWhen lifting colour\/ going lighter on coarse hair:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Whether using an oxidative hair colour or a bleaching product, you may need to bump up your developer to achieve the required lift. For example, if lifting 2 levels with an oxidative colour, opt for 30volume. This will increase the\u00a0 alkalinity to allow for adequate swelling of the hair strand and better penetration of colour into the [pb_glossary id=\"202\"]cortex[\/pb_glossary]. This is especially important when dealing with resistant porosity.<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Coarse hair has a larger diameter, and a larger cortex, which results in a higher [pb_glossary id=\"204\"]melanin[\/pb_glossary] concentration. For this reason, coarse hair will generally take longer to lighten, and will expose more [pb_glossary id=\"192\"]underlying pigment[\/pb_glossary] as you lift.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h2>Underlying Pigment Considerations<\/h2>\r\n<em>\u00a0<\/em>Anytime you are lightening, you must be conscious of the ten levels of lift, and the underlying pigment that is exposed as the hair lightens.\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-175\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/underlying-pigment2-2.jpg\" alt=\"Image depicting 10 levels of underlying pigment.\" width=\"884\" height=\"325\" \/>\r\n\r\nWhen formulating, you must determine the underlying pigment at your <em>target <\/em>level. For example, if lifting from a level 4 to a level 6, the tone that must be considered is orange.\r\n\r\nSo what will you do with that orange? Do you want to <em>enhance <\/em>or <em>neutralize <\/em>it? Remember, this decision depends on your desired result. The second most important tool, along with the underlying pigment chart, is the colour wheel. This is where you will find pertinent information to help you formulate with\u00a0consideration to\u00a0the underlying pigment.\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-122\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/COLOUR-WHEEL2.jpg\" alt=\"Image depicting the colour wheel\" width=\"452\" height=\"425\" \/>\r\n<h3>Enhancing the Underlying Pigment<\/h3>\r\nIf the desired result is warm-toned, as in golden, copper, or red, you can enhance the exposed underlying pigment to create a beautiful warm or vivid result. Once you determine the underlying pigment that will be exposed, choose a tone from the same side of the colour wheel to add to your formula. The more warmth you add, the brighter and more vivid the result. If you are looking for a more natural and subtle warm effect, add less. Alternatively, use a neutral natural colour, and let the exposed pigment do all the work.\r\n\r\nA general guideline:\r\n<table class=\" aligncenter\">\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><\/p>\r\n<\/td>\r\n<th scope=\"col\">Natural<\/th>\r\n<th scope=\"col\">Warm tone<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>Ultra vibrant<\/td>\r\n<td>10 ml<\/td>\r\n<td>30 ml<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>Vibrant natural<\/td>\r\n<td>20 ml<\/td>\r\n<td>20 ml<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td>Natural warm<\/td>\r\n<td>30-40ml<\/td>\r\n<td>0-10 ml<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: The above chart does not account for porosity or hair texture concerns, yet it provides a basic guideline to help you visualize an appropriate ratio of natural-to-warm colour tones depending on your desired result.<\/div>\r\n<h3>Neutralizing the Underlying Pigment<\/h3>\r\nIf the desired result is neutral or cool toned, you will need to neutralize or overcorrect the exposed underlying pigment. You can do this by selecting a tone from the opposite side of the colour wheel to add to your formula. If your goal is a neutral result, add the complimentary tone. For example, neutralize yellow with some violet in your colour formula.\r\n\r\nThe amount of correcting pigment that you add to your formula will vary by level. Note: Generally, levels 3\u20136 contain a stronger underlying pigment, and will need more neutralizing pigment than lighter levels 7\u201310.\r\n\r\nIf you want an ash or cool tone result, select a complimentary tone appropriate for a darker level. For example, neutralize and overcorrect yellow with blue-violet or blue. Keep in mind that over correcting may create a \u201cmuddy\u201d or dull result, as warmth in the hair is what reflects light and adds shine.\r\n\r\nWhen using bleach for a double process technique, your corrective tones will be added to the toner, depending on which level you have lifted to.\r\n<h3>Media Attributions<\/h3>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>All images in this chapter are by A. Magtiza and are under a <a class=\"internal\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/\">CC BY 4.0 Licence<\/a>.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>","rendered":"<p>Now comes time to choose a colouring product to use. But first, recap the necessary steps that got you to this point!<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Assess hair and scalp\n<ul>\n<li>\u00a0<a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_205\">Porosity<\/a>, <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_207\">elasticity<\/a> and<a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_208\"> texture<\/a><\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Existing<a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_164\"> level<\/a> and <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_220\">tone<\/a><\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Percentage of grey<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Perform a thorough client consultation\n<ul>\n<li>\u00a0Determine target level and tone<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Discuss maintenance, commitment, and budget<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>Next, you must:<\/p>\n<ol start=\"3\">\n<li>Select an appropriate colouring product based on:\n<ul>\n<li>\u00a0Lift or deposit<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Grey coverage<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Hair assessment<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Lasting ability<\/li>\n<li>\u00a0Application technique<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Consider existing tone\/ underlying pigment\n<ul>\n<li>\u00a0<a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_199\">Enhance<\/a> or <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_200\">neutralize<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Select appropriate tools and supplies for selected application technique<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h1>Depositing, or Going Darker<\/h1>\n<p>Let\u2019s first compare options for depositing, or going darker:<\/p>\n<table style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 294px;\">\n<caption>Options for Depositing (Going Darker)<\/caption>\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 40%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Oxidative<\/th>\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 40%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Non-oxidative<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent<\/th>\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Demi-permanent<\/th>\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Semi-permanent<\/th>\n<th class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Temporary<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">pH<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">9\u201311 +<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20139<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20138<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">6\u20138<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Regrowth<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Yes<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Subtle<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Grey hair<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Full coverage<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Blending<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Light blending<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Lasting ability*<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Until colour grows out<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4\u20136 weeks<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">2\u20134 weeks<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Until hair is shampooed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Mixing ratio<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturers guidelines.\" id=\"return-footnote-54-1\" href=\"#footnote-54-1\" aria-label=\"Footnote 1\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[1]<\/sup><\/a><\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">1:1<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">2:1<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No mixing required<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No mixing required<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Processing time<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.\" id=\"return-footnote-54-2\" href=\"#footnote-54-2\" aria-label=\"Footnote 2\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[2]<\/sup><\/a><\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">30\u201340 minutes<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">20\u201330 minutes<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">20\u201330 minutes<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">0\u201320 minutes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 132px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Uses\/Ideal hair types<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Grey coverage<\/li>\n<li>Course hair<\/li>\n<li>Resistant porosity<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Grey blending<\/li>\n<li>Fine &#8211; coarse hair<\/li>\n<li>Normal &#8211; porous<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Light grey blending<\/li>\n<li>Fine &#8211; medium hair<\/li>\n<li>Normal &#8211; compromised<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 132px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Vivid colours<\/li>\n<li>Fast and fun colour change<\/li>\n<li>All hair types<\/li>\n<li>May stain porous hair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"vertical-align: top;\" scope=\"row\">Techniques<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Root retouch<\/li>\n<li>Global colour<\/li>\n<li>Lowlights<\/li>\n<li>Shadow root<\/li>\n<li>Drop root<\/li>\n<li>Toning with base break<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Root retouch<\/li>\n<li>Global colour<\/li>\n<li>Colour balance<\/li>\n<li>Lowlights<\/li>\n<li>Shadow root<\/li>\n<li>Drop root<\/li>\n<li>Toning<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Root retouch<\/li>\n<li>Global colour<\/li>\n<li>Colour balance<\/li>\n<li>Toning<\/li>\n<li>Vivid\/pastel tones<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"orange\" style=\"width: 20%; height: 18px; vertical-align: top;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Vivid\/pastel tones<\/li>\n<li>Fashion placement<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>*Lasting ability is calculated under ideal circumstances. Durability can be affected by:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Porosity \u2013 hair that is overly porous tends to lose artificial colour and fade more quickly.<\/li>\n<li>Products \u2013 shampoos and products that are not formulated for coloured hair may cause fading. Hair that is frequently heat styled without heat protective products will also fade more quickly.<\/li>\n<li>Environment \u2013 factors such as sun exposure, pollution and poor water quality will all have an adverse effect on colour durability.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Some additional factors to think about when considering hair type and condition:<\/p>\n<p>Depositing\u00a0colour on healthy, medium textured hair is usually a pretty straightforward and predictable process. This is because the condition of\u00a0this hair type does not generally have any porosity concerns, which means you may follow\u00a0the manufacturers guidelines for your colour line to achieve optimal results.<\/p>\n<h2>Fine Hair Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>When depositing colour\/going darker on fine hair:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Fine hair is generally not resistant to absorbing colour. Choose a colouring product with a lower pH, such as Semi or Demi-Permanent, to maintain the integrity of the hair strand.<\/li>\n<li>Fine hair tends to process darker than the intended level, especially if <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_211\">extreme porosity<\/a> is present. It is recommended to formulate a colour that is one level lighter than the desired level.<\/li>\n<li>Fine hair that has been previously treated with oxidative colour products is more likely to be highly porous. A colouring product that is too alkaline will swell the already compromised hair strand and result in breakage or further damage.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Coarse Hair Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>When depositing colour\/ going darker on coarse hair:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Coarse hair with <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_209\">resistant porosity<\/a> requires a higher level of developer, and a higher amount of ammonia within the formula in order to swell the hair strand and open up the cuticle layers effectively. Opt for an <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_213\">oxidative colour<\/a>, with a 10 or 20vol developer. A <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_212\">non-oxidative colour<\/a> product, such as a semi permanent, may not process effectively.<\/li>\n<li>Remember that coarse hair tends to process one level lighter than the intended level, especially if resistant porosity is also present. It is recommended to formulate a colour that is one level darker than the desired level.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Hair with <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_215\">uneven porosity<\/a> must be formulated carefully, as each differing section will absorb and process colour differently.\u00a0Generally speaking, more than one colour formula is advised in this case in order to achieve an even end result.<\/p>\n<h2>Existing Colour Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>Because the final colour result is the result of <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_189\">existing colour<\/a> + <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_197\">artificial colour<\/a>, you should take into account the existing tone of the hair. If the client is a copper-tinged level 6 to begin with and would like to be a level 5, we will formulate differently depending on whether they desire a <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_168\">warm<\/a> result, a <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_170\">neutral<\/a> result, or a <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_169\">cool<\/a> result.<\/p>\n<p>This is where the <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_193\">Colour wheel<\/a> comes in handy.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-122\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/COLOUR-WHEEL2.jpg\" alt=\"Image of the colour wheel\" width=\"491\" height=\"461\" \/><\/p>\n<p>If the client would like a warm result, formulate with the warm side of the colour wheel, by adding some gold, copper, or red to the formula to enhance the warm tone present in the hair.<\/p>\n<p>If you want to neutralize the tone of the hair while you deposit, use the colour wheel to choose which corrective pigment to add to your formula. Remember that <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_196\">complimentary colours<\/a><em>, <\/em>colours that sit opposite on the colour wheel, neutralize each other. In the case of the copper-tinged level 6 client that would like to be a level 5, you would add some blue to your formula, as that is the complimentary shade used to neutralize orange.<\/p>\n<p>If this client would like a cool result, you could add more of a blue-green tone to the formula, to over tone it. Keep in mind that this may create a \u201cmuddy\u201d or dull appearance, as warmth in the hair is what reflects light and gives it shine. In cases of extreme porosity, care must be taken to not add too much of the cool tone to your colour formula, as porous hair has a tendency to absorb cool tones and reject warmth.<\/p>\n<h1>Lifting, or Lightening<\/h1>\n<p>Now let\u2019s compare the options for lifting or lightening hair.<\/p>\n<table style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 451px;\">\n<caption>Options for Lifting or Lightening Hair<\/caption>\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 25%; height: 36px;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Oxidative Colour<\/th>\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Bleach<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent or high-lift<\/th>\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">On-scalp<br \/>\nCream or oil<\/th>\n<th class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\" scope=\"col\">Off-scalp<br \/>\nPowder or clay<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 55px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px;\" scope=\"row\">pH<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">9\u201311<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">~9<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency\" id=\"return-footnote-54-3\" href=\"#footnote-54-3\" aria-label=\"Footnote 3\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[3]<\/sup><\/a><\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 55px; text-align: center;\">~10\u201311<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency\" id=\"return-footnote-54-4\" href=\"#footnote-54-4\" aria-label=\"Footnote 4\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[4]<\/sup><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px;\" scope=\"row\">Levels of lift<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">1\u20134 (<strong>on virgin hair<\/strong>)<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4+ (on virgin or coloured hair)<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">4+ (On virgin or coloured hair)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 73px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px;\" scope=\"row\">Mixing ratio<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.\" id=\"return-footnote-54-5\" href=\"#footnote-54-5\" aria-label=\"Footnote 5\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[5]<\/sup><\/a><\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1 permanent<br \/>\n2:1 high-lift<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1\u20133:1<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">1:1\u20133:1<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 73px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px;\" scope=\"row\">Processing time<a class=\"footnote\" title=\"Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines.\" id=\"return-footnote-54-6\" href=\"#footnote-54-6\" aria-label=\"Footnote 6\"><sup class=\"footnote\">[6]<\/sup><\/a><\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">30\u201350 minutes<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">Up to 1 hour<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 73px; text-align: center;\">Up to 1 hour<br \/>\nMax lift speed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 18px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px;\" scope=\"row\">Conditioning agents<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">n\/a<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">Yes<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 18px; text-align: center;\">No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr style=\"height: 178px;\">\n<th style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\" scope=\"row\">Techniques<\/th>\n<td class=\"blue\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Root retouch<\/li>\n<li>Global colour<\/li>\n<li>Highlights<\/li>\n<li>Base break<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>On virgin hair<\/strong><\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Root retouch<\/li>\n<li>Global lightening<\/li>\n<li>Double-process blonde<\/li>\n<li>Highlights<\/li>\n<li>Gentle brightening of previous blonding services<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<td class=\"green\" style=\"width: 25%; height: 178px;\">\n<ul class=\"small\">\n<li>Lightening of mids-ends<\/li>\n<li>Highlights<\/li>\n<li>Balayage<\/li>\n<li>Ombr\u00e9<\/li>\n<li>Hand painting<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Some additional factors to think about when considering hair type and condition:<\/p>\n<h2>Fine Hair Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>When lifting\/going lighter on fine hair:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Factor in any structural effects that previous colour services have had on the hair, such as a higher porosity or weakened state. A lightening product that is too alkaline will swell the already compromised hair strand and result in breakage or further damage.<\/li>\n<li>If using oxidative hair colour, choose the lowest level of <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_175\">developer<\/a> needed to achieve desired lift.<\/li>\n<li>If using a bleach product, use a low level developer, such as 10 or 20vol. Most colour lines will offer a gentler bleach option as well. If many levels of lift are required, it is best to use a low level developer for a longer period of time. Note: You may also opt to use a higher developer to bleach ratio, as this will reduce the pH of the lightening product.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Coarse Hair Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>When lifting colour\/ going lighter on coarse hair:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Whether using an oxidative hair colour or a bleaching product, you may need to bump up your developer to achieve the required lift. For example, if lifting 2 levels with an oxidative colour, opt for 30volume. This will increase the\u00a0 alkalinity to allow for adequate swelling of the hair strand and better penetration of colour into the <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_202\">cortex<\/a>. This is especially important when dealing with resistant porosity.<\/li>\n<li>Coarse hair has a larger diameter, and a larger cortex, which results in a higher <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_204\">melanin<\/a> concentration. For this reason, coarse hair will generally take longer to lighten, and will expose more <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_54_192\">underlying pigment<\/a> as you lift.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Underlying Pigment Considerations<\/h2>\n<p><em>\u00a0<\/em>Anytime you are lightening, you must be conscious of the ten levels of lift, and the underlying pigment that is exposed as the hair lightens.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-175\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/underlying-pigment2-2.jpg\" alt=\"Image depicting 10 levels of underlying pigment.\" width=\"884\" height=\"325\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When formulating, you must determine the underlying pigment at your <em>target <\/em>level. For example, if lifting from a level 4 to a level 6, the tone that must be considered is orange.<\/p>\n<p>So what will you do with that orange? Do you want to <em>enhance <\/em>or <em>neutralize <\/em>it? Remember, this decision depends on your desired result. The second most important tool, along with the underlying pigment chart, is the colour wheel. This is where you will find pertinent information to help you formulate with\u00a0consideration to\u00a0the underlying pigment.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-122\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/COLOUR-WHEEL2.jpg\" alt=\"Image depicting the colour wheel\" width=\"452\" height=\"425\" \/><\/p>\n<h3>Enhancing the Underlying Pigment<\/h3>\n<p>If the desired result is warm-toned, as in golden, copper, or red, you can enhance the exposed underlying pigment to create a beautiful warm or vivid result. Once you determine the underlying pigment that will be exposed, choose a tone from the same side of the colour wheel to add to your formula. The more warmth you add, the brighter and more vivid the result. If you are looking for a more natural and subtle warm effect, add less. Alternatively, use a neutral natural colour, and let the exposed pigment do all the work.<\/p>\n<p>A general guideline:<\/p>\n<table class=\"aligncenter\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<\/td>\n<th scope=\"col\">Natural<\/th>\n<th scope=\"col\">Warm tone<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Ultra vibrant<\/td>\n<td>10 ml<\/td>\n<td>30 ml<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Vibrant natural<\/td>\n<td>20 ml<\/td>\n<td>20 ml<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Natural warm<\/td>\n<td>30-40ml<\/td>\n<td>0-10 ml<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: The above chart does not account for porosity or hair texture concerns, yet it provides a basic guideline to help you visualize an appropriate ratio of natural-to-warm colour tones depending on your desired result.<\/div>\n<h3>Neutralizing the Underlying Pigment<\/h3>\n<p>If the desired result is neutral or cool toned, you will need to neutralize or overcorrect the exposed underlying pigment. You can do this by selecting a tone from the opposite side of the colour wheel to add to your formula. If your goal is a neutral result, add the complimentary tone. For example, neutralize yellow with some violet in your colour formula.<\/p>\n<p>The amount of correcting pigment that you add to your formula will vary by level. Note: Generally, levels 3\u20136 contain a stronger underlying pigment, and will need more neutralizing pigment than lighter levels 7\u201310.<\/p>\n<p>If you want an ash or cool tone result, select a complimentary tone appropriate for a darker level. For example, neutralize and overcorrect yellow with blue-violet or blue. Keep in mind that over correcting may create a \u201cmuddy\u201d or dull result, as warmth in the hair is what reflects light and adds shine.<\/p>\n<p>When using bleach for a double process technique, your corrective tones will be added to the toner, depending on which level you have lifted to.<\/p>\n<h3>Media Attributions<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>All images in this chapter are by A. Magtiza and are under a <a class=\"internal\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/\">CC BY 4.0 Licence<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr class=\"before-footnotes clear\" \/><div class=\"footnotes\"><ol><li id=\"footnote-54-1\">Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturers guidelines. <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-1\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 1\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><li id=\"footnote-54-2\">Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines. <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-2\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 2\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><li id=\"footnote-54-3\">pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-3\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 3\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><li id=\"footnote-54-4\">pH of lightener will depend on mixing ratio\/consistency <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-4\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 4\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><li id=\"footnote-54-5\">Mixing ratios may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines. <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-5\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 5\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><li id=\"footnote-54-6\">Processing time may vary. Follow manufacturer's guidelines. <a href=\"#return-footnote-54-6\" class=\"return-footnote\" aria-label=\"Return to footnote 6\">&crarr;<\/a><\/li><\/ol><\/div><div class=\"glossary\"><span class=\"screen-reader-text\" id=\"definition\">definition<\/span><template id=\"term_54_205\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_205\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The hair's ability to absorb moisture or chemicals.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_207\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_207\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original shape without snapping.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_208\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_208\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The diameter of the hair strand. Texture can be described as fine, medium, or coarse.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_164\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_164\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The darkness or lightness of colour in relationship to other colours.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_220\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_220\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The shade or hue.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_199\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_199\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>To add to the intensity or vibrance of a colour.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_200\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_200\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>To counteract or drab the intensity or hue of a colour.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_211\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_211\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Hair readily absorbs moisture and chemical products. Cuticle scales are lifted and\/or damaged.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_209\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_209\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Hair that does not readily absorb moisture or chemical products. Cuticle scales are tightly packed and smooth.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_213\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_213\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colouring products that require a developing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, to oxidize and introduce colour molecules into the hair strand.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_212\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_212\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colouring products that do not require the use or mixing of a developing agent such as hydrogen peroxide.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_215\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_215\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Hair that displays one or more types of porosity at different areas among the hair.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_189\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_189\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The hue, level, and intensity that exists in a client's hair prior to a colour service. This could refer to natural colour or previous artificial colour.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_197\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_197\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Oxidative or non-oxidative colour products that are added to the hair in order to change its hue, level, or intensity.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_168\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_168\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colours that reflect red, orange, or yellow.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_170\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_170\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colour that does not predominantly reflect a warm or cool tone.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_169\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_169\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colours that reflect blue, violet, or green.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_193\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_193\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>A tool used by stylists for hair colour assessment and formulating<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_196\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_196\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colours which sit across from eachother on the colour wheel, and when mixed, cancel eachother out to create a grey\/brown neutral colour.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_175\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_175\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>An acidic product that is mixed with oxidative colour in order to oxidize and produce colour molecules.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_202\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_202\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The second layer of a hair strand, which provides hair with its strength and elasticity.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_204\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_204\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Pigment that resides in the hair's cortex which gives hair its hue.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_54_192\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_54_192\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Any pigments that are exposed as hair is lightened through the 10 levels of lift.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><\/div>","protected":false},"author":90,"menu_order":1,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"on","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":[],"pb_section_license":""},"chapter-type":[],"contributor":[],"license":[],"class_list":["post-54","chapter","type-chapter","status-publish","hentry"],"part":53,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/54","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/chapter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/90"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/54\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":388,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/54\/revisions\/388"}],"part":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/parts\/53"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/54\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=54"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"chapter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapter-type?post=54"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=54"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=54"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}