{"id":57,"date":"2021-01-26T17:19:52","date_gmt":"2021-01-26T22:19:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/hair-and-scalp-assessment\/"},"modified":"2021-02-19T13:42:53","modified_gmt":"2021-02-19T18:42:53","slug":"hair-and-scalp-assessment","status":"publish","type":"chapter","link":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/hair-and-scalp-assessment\/","title":{"raw":"4.1 Hair and Scalp Assessment","rendered":"4.1 Hair and Scalp Assessment"},"content":{"raw":"As with any service, when performing a virgin lightening service, you must begin with an assessment of the\u00a0hair and scalp, followed by a detailed colour assessment.\r\n<h1>Texture, Porosity, and Elasticity<\/h1>\r\nAs detailed in <a class=\"internal\" href=\"\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/part\/product-selection-and-formulation\/\">Chapter 3<\/a>, [pb_glossary id=\"208\"]texture[\/pb_glossary], [pb_glossary id=\"205\"]porosity[\/pb_glossary], and [pb_glossary id=\"207\"]elasticity[\/pb_glossary] will affect your choice of colouring product when lightening hair.\r\n\r\nTo review:\r\n\r\nFine textured hair is generally less resistant to the lightening process due to an increased chance of [pb_glossary id=\"211\"]high porosity[\/pb_glossary]. In the case of virgin hair, this porosity may be caused by heat styling or environmental factors. Fine hair also lacks a substantial [pb_glossary id=\"202\"]cortex[\/pb_glossary] layer which makes it more prone to damage, as the cortex is what gives hair its flexibility and strength. This puts fine hair at greater risk of poor elasticity and breakage. If your client has fine hair that has poor elasticity, it is a good practice to perform strengthening treatments prior to the lightening service.\r\n<h2>Recommendations for Lightening Fine Hair<\/h2>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Use the lowest volume of [pb_glossary id=\"175\"]developer[\/pb_glossary] possible to achieve your desired lift<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Choose a low alkaline lightening product to avoid excessive swelling of the delicate hair strand<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Monitor the lightening process carefully to avoid over-processing and damaging the hair<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\nCoarse textured hair is more likely to have [pb_glossary id=\"209\"]resistant porosity[\/pb_glossary], which can make it tougher to lighten. Coarse hair has a substantial cortex layer which provides the hair strand with the strength and flexibility to withstand the lightening process with less chance of damage; however, this larger cortex also means that there is more [pb_glossary id=\"204\"]melanin[\/pb_glossary] to diffuse, usually resulting in a stronger [pb_glossary id=\"192\"]underlying pigment[\/pb_glossary].\r\n<h2>Recommendations for Lightening Coarse Hair<\/h2>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>If working with resistant porosity, bump up your developer to achieve the desired lift<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Choose a higher alkaline lightening product to swell the hair strand effectively<\/li>\r\n \t<li>A second application may be required to reach the desired level of lift when using a bleach product<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Monitor the lightening process to avoid over-processing and damaging the hair<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h2>Scalp Considerations<\/h2>\r\nAs you perform your consultation, you should be checking the scalp for any irregularities or abrasions. Remember to ask your client about whether they have experienced any scalp sensitivity in the past.\r\n<h1>Colour Assessment<\/h1>\r\nOnce you have assessed the hair and scalp condition, perform a thorough colour consultation to determine the following:\r\n<ol type=\"a\">\r\n \t<li>Existing [pb_glossary id=\"164\"]level[\/pb_glossary] and [pb_glossary id=\"220\"]tone[\/pb_glossary]<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Target level and tone<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Levels of lift required<\/li>\r\n<\/ol>\r\nThe amount of lift required will help us determine whether we will use an [pb_glossary id=\"213\"]oxidative colour product[\/pb_glossary] or a bleach product.\r\n\r\nOxidative colour and high-lift have the ability to lift up to 4 levels. Bleach products have the ability to lift more than 4 levels.\r\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: The amount of lift that can be achieved with either option depends on the structure and condition of the hair.<\/div>\r\nFinal step is a [pb_glossary id=\"172\"]strand test[\/pb_glossary] and [pb_glossary id=\"171\"]patch test[\/pb_glossary] \u2013 especially important when your client is new to colour!\r\n\r\nNext, let\u2019s look at oxidative colour products and bleaching products individually.","rendered":"<p>As with any service, when performing a virgin lightening service, you must begin with an assessment of the\u00a0hair and scalp, followed by a detailed colour assessment.<\/p>\n<h1>Texture, Porosity, and Elasticity<\/h1>\n<p>As detailed in <a class=\"internal\" href=\"\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/part\/product-selection-and-formulation\/\">Chapter 3<\/a>, <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_208\">texture<\/a>, <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_205\">porosity<\/a>, and <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_207\">elasticity<\/a> will affect your choice of colouring product when lightening hair.<\/p>\n<p>To review:<\/p>\n<p>Fine textured hair is generally less resistant to the lightening process due to an increased chance of <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_211\">high porosity<\/a>. In the case of virgin hair, this porosity may be caused by heat styling or environmental factors. Fine hair also lacks a substantial <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_202\">cortex<\/a> layer which makes it more prone to damage, as the cortex is what gives hair its flexibility and strength. This puts fine hair at greater risk of poor elasticity and breakage. If your client has fine hair that has poor elasticity, it is a good practice to perform strengthening treatments prior to the lightening service.<\/p>\n<h2>Recommendations for Lightening Fine Hair<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Use the lowest volume of <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_175\">developer<\/a> possible to achieve your desired lift<\/li>\n<li>Choose a low alkaline lightening product to avoid excessive swelling of the delicate hair strand<\/li>\n<li>Monitor the lightening process carefully to avoid over-processing and damaging the hair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Coarse textured hair is more likely to have <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_209\">resistant porosity<\/a>, which can make it tougher to lighten. Coarse hair has a substantial cortex layer which provides the hair strand with the strength and flexibility to withstand the lightening process with less chance of damage; however, this larger cortex also means that there is more <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_204\">melanin<\/a> to diffuse, usually resulting in a stronger <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_192\">underlying pigment<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>Recommendations for Lightening Coarse Hair<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>If working with resistant porosity, bump up your developer to achieve the desired lift<\/li>\n<li>Choose a higher alkaline lightening product to swell the hair strand effectively<\/li>\n<li>A second application may be required to reach the desired level of lift when using a bleach product<\/li>\n<li>Monitor the lightening process to avoid over-processing and damaging the hair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Scalp Considerations<\/h2>\n<p>As you perform your consultation, you should be checking the scalp for any irregularities or abrasions. Remember to ask your client about whether they have experienced any scalp sensitivity in the past.<\/p>\n<h1>Colour Assessment<\/h1>\n<p>Once you have assessed the hair and scalp condition, perform a thorough colour consultation to determine the following:<\/p>\n<ol type=\"a\">\n<li>Existing <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_164\">level<\/a> and <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_220\">tone<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Target level and tone<\/li>\n<li>Levels of lift required<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>The amount of lift required will help us determine whether we will use an <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_213\">oxidative colour product<\/a> or a bleach product.<\/p>\n<p>Oxidative colour and high-lift have the ability to lift up to 4 levels. Bleach products have the ability to lift more than 4 levels.<\/p>\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: The amount of lift that can be achieved with either option depends on the structure and condition of the hair.<\/div>\n<p>Final step is a <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_172\">strand test<\/a> and <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_57_171\">patch test<\/a> \u2013 especially important when your client is new to colour!<\/p>\n<p>Next, let\u2019s look at oxidative colour products and bleaching products individually.<\/p>\n<div class=\"glossary\"><span class=\"screen-reader-text\" id=\"definition\">definition<\/span><template id=\"term_57_208\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_208\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The diameter of the hair strand. Texture can be described as fine, medium, or coarse.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_205\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_205\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The hair's ability to absorb moisture or chemicals.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_207\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_207\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original shape without snapping.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_211\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_211\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Hair readily absorbs moisture and chemical products. Cuticle scales are lifted and\/or damaged.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_202\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_202\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The second layer of a hair strand, which provides hair with its strength and elasticity.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_175\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_175\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>An acidic product that is mixed with oxidative colour in order to oxidize and produce colour molecules.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_209\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_209\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Hair that does not readily absorb moisture or chemical products. Cuticle scales are tightly packed and smooth.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_204\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_204\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Pigment that resides in the hair's cortex which gives hair its hue.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_192\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_192\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Any pigments that are exposed as hair is lightened through the 10 levels of lift.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_164\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_164\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The darkness or lightness of colour in relationship to other colours.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_220\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_220\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The shade or hue.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_213\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_213\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>Colouring products that require a developing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, to oxidize and introduce colour molecules into the hair strand.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_172\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_172\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The intended colour formula is applied to a strand of hair to help determine end result.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><template id=\"term_57_171\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_57_171\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>The intended colour product is applied to the inside of the elbow and behind the ear to determine if there are any sensitivities or allergies.<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><\/div>","protected":false},"author":90,"menu_order":1,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"on","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":[],"pb_section_license":""},"chapter-type":[],"contributor":[],"license":[],"class_list":["post-57","chapter","type-chapter","status-publish","hentry"],"part":56,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/57","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/chapter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/90"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/57\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":389,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/57\/revisions\/389"}],"part":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/parts\/56"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/57\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=57"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"chapter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapter-type?post=57"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=57"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=57"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}