{"id":59,"date":"2021-01-26T17:19:53","date_gmt":"2021-01-26T22:19:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/oxidative-permanent-and-high-lift\/"},"modified":"2021-02-19T12:58:34","modified_gmt":"2021-02-19T17:58:34","slug":"oxidative-permanent-and-high-lift","status":"publish","type":"chapter","link":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/chapter\/oxidative-permanent-and-high-lift\/","title":{"raw":"4.2 Oxidative Permanent and High-Lift","rendered":"4.2 Oxidative Permanent and High-Lift"},"content":{"raw":"Characteristics of oxidative permanent and high-lift colour products:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Ability to lift up to 4 levels<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Lift and deposit tone in one process<\/li>\r\n \t<li>One formula will produce an even result throughout the hair<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<h1>Formulating<\/h1>\r\nBelow is a review of how many levels of lift can generally be expected with each volume of developer:\r\n<table class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 75%;\" border=\"0\">\r\n<tbody>\r\n<tr>\r\n<td style=\"width: 21.273%;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\r\n<th style=\"width: 44.6402%; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Levels of lift<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<th style=\"width: 23.2912%;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent\r\n\r\n1:1 mixing ratio<\/th>\r\n<th style=\"width: 21.349%;\" scope=\"col\">High-lift\r\n\r\n2:1 mixing ratio<\/th>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<th scope=\"row\">10vol<\/th>\r\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">0\u20131<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">\/<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<th scope=\"row\">20vol<\/th>\r\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">1\u20132<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">\/<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<th scope=\"row\">30vol<\/th>\r\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">2\u20133<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">2\u20133<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<tr>\r\n<th scope=\"row\">40vol<\/th>\r\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">3\u20134<\/td>\r\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">3\u20134<\/td>\r\n<\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\r\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: High-lift colouring products are higher in alkalinity and are designed to achieve lighter colour results. These are recommended to be used with either 30-volume or 40-volume developers. Due to their higher alkalinity, these are a great option for hair with resistant porosity.<\/div>\r\nLet\u2019s summarize what we have learned so far about formulating for lift by looking at some examples of oxidative colour formulas and using the underlying pigment chart and [pb_glossary id=\"193\"]colour wheel[\/pb_glossary] below:\r\n\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-258\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/combochart.jpg\" alt=\"The underlying pigment chart and the colour wheel.\" width=\"831\" height=\"470\" \/>\r\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\"><header class=\"textbox__header\">\r\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 1<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/header>\r\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\r\n\r\nHair and colour assessment:\r\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\r\n \t<li>Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Target level (TL) and tone: 7 natural copper<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Levels of lift required: 2*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow-orange<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Neutralize or enhance?: Enhance<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Porosity: average<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Elasticity: good<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<strong>Fine hair formula:\u00a0<\/strong>40ml\u00a0<strong>20vol*\u00a0<\/strong>+ 20ml 7 Natural + 20ml 7 Copper\r\n\r\n*20vol lifts 1\u20132 levels\r\n\r\nExplanation: When working with\u00a0fine hair, use the minimum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will enhance the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.\r\n\r\n<strong>Coarse hair formula:<\/strong> 40ml\u00a0<strong>30vol* +\u00a0<\/strong>25ml 7 Natural + 15ml 7 Copper\r\n\r\n<strong>*30vol lifts 2\u20133 levels<\/strong>\r\n\r\nExplanation: When working with coarse hair, use the maximum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will\u00a0<strong>enhance\u00a0<\/strong>the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.\r\n\r\nNote: For the course-hair formula, the amount of natural has increased slightly in relation to the amount of copper. This is because coarse hair generally has a stronger underlying pigment and therefore does not need as much enhancing tone.\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\"><header class=\"textbox__header\">\r\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 2<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/header>\r\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\r\n\r\nHair and colour assessment:\r\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Levels of lift required: 3*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Neutralize or enhance?:\u00a0Neutralize<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Texture: Fine*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Porosity: Extreme*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Elasticity: Good<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<strong>Fine Hair Formula:<\/strong> 40ml\u00a0<strong>30vol*<\/strong>\u00a0+ 30ml 8 Natural + 10ml 8 Violet\r\n\r\n*30vol lifts 2\u20133 levels\r\n\r\nExplanation: When working with\u00a0fine\u00a0hair, use the lowest volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will\u00a0neutralize\u00a0the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is fine and porous, the hair will more readily absorb the cool tone. Using primarily natural in the formula will soften and dilute the violet tone to prevent an over-toned result.\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\"><header class=\"textbox__header\">\r\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 3<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/header>\r\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\r\n\r\nHair and colour assessment:\r\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\r\n \t<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Levels of lift required: 3*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Neutralize or enhance?:\u00a0Neutralize<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Texture: Coarse*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Porosity: Resistant*<\/li>\r\n \t<li>Elasticity: Good<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<strong>Coarse Hair Formula:<\/strong> <strong>40ml\u00a040vol*<\/strong>\u00a0+ 40ml 8 Violet\r\n\r\n*40vol lifts 3\u20134 levels\r\n\r\nExplanation: When working with\u00a0resistant coarse\u00a0hair, use the higher volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will\u00a0neutralize\u00a0the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is\u00a0coarse, the underlying yellow pigment is likely to be quite strong. In this circumstance, adding a natural into the formula would dilute the necessary neutralizing tone, resulting in a warm outcome.\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\nNext up, let's look at a complete virgin lightening process using oxidative colour.\r\n<h3>Media Attributions<\/h3>\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>All images in this chapter are by A. Magtiza and are under a <a class=\"internal\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/\">CC BY 4.0 Licence<\/a>.<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>","rendered":"<p>Characteristics of oxidative permanent and high-lift colour products:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Ability to lift up to 4 levels<\/li>\n<li>Lift and deposit tone in one process<\/li>\n<li>One formula will produce an even result throughout the hair<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1>Formulating<\/h1>\n<p>Below is a review of how many levels of lift can generally be expected with each volume of developer:<\/p>\n<table class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"border-collapse: collapse; width: 75%;\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 21.273%;\" rowspan=\"2\"><\/td>\n<th style=\"width: 44.6402%; text-align: center;\" colspan=\"2\" scope=\"col\">Levels of lift<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<th style=\"width: 23.2912%;\" scope=\"col\">Permanent<\/p>\n<p>1:1 mixing ratio<\/th>\n<th style=\"width: 21.349%;\" scope=\"col\">High-lift<\/p>\n<p>2:1 mixing ratio<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<th scope=\"row\">10vol<\/th>\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">0\u20131<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">\/<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<th scope=\"row\">20vol<\/th>\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">1\u20132<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">\/<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<th scope=\"row\">30vol<\/th>\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">2\u20133<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">2\u20133<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<th scope=\"row\">40vol<\/th>\n<td style=\"width: 23.2912%; text-align: center;\">3\u20134<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 21.349%; text-align: center;\">3\u20134<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<div class=\"textbox\">Note: High-lift colouring products are higher in alkalinity and are designed to achieve lighter colour results. These are recommended to be used with either 30-volume or 40-volume developers. Due to their higher alkalinity, these are a great option for hair with resistant porosity.<\/div>\n<p>Let\u2019s summarize what we have learned so far about formulating for lift by looking at some examples of oxidative colour formulas and using the underlying pigment chart and <a class=\"glossary-term\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-describedby=\"definition\" href=\"#term_59_193\">colour wheel<\/a> below:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-258\" src=\"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/329\/2021\/01\/combochart.jpg\" alt=\"The underlying pigment chart and the colour wheel.\" width=\"831\" height=\"470\" \/><\/p>\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\">\n<header class=\"textbox__header\">\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 1<\/p>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\n<p>Hair and colour assessment:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\n<li>Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\n<li>Target level (TL) and tone: 7 natural copper<\/li>\n<li>Levels of lift required: 2*<\/li>\n<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow-orange<\/li>\n<li>Neutralize or enhance?: Enhance<\/li>\n<li>Porosity: average<\/li>\n<li>Elasticity: good<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Fine hair formula:\u00a0<\/strong>40ml\u00a0<strong>20vol*\u00a0<\/strong>+ 20ml 7 Natural + 20ml 7 Copper<\/p>\n<p>*20vol lifts 1\u20132 levels<\/p>\n<p>Explanation: When working with\u00a0fine hair, use the minimum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will enhance the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Coarse hair formula:<\/strong> 40ml\u00a0<strong>30vol* +\u00a0<\/strong>25ml 7 Natural + 15ml 7 Copper<\/p>\n<p><strong>*30vol lifts 2\u20133 levels<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Explanation: When working with coarse hair, use the maximum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will\u00a0<strong>enhance\u00a0<\/strong>the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.<\/p>\n<p>Note: For the course-hair formula, the amount of natural has increased slightly in relation to the amount of copper. This is because coarse hair generally has a stronger underlying pigment and therefore does not need as much enhancing tone.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\">\n<header class=\"textbox__header\">\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 2<\/p>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\n<p>Hair and colour assessment:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\n<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\n<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral<\/li>\n<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow<\/li>\n<li>Levels of lift required: 3*<\/li>\n<li>Neutralize or enhance?:\u00a0Neutralize<\/li>\n<li>Texture: Fine*<\/li>\n<li>Porosity: Extreme*<\/li>\n<li>Elasticity: Good<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Fine Hair Formula:<\/strong> 40ml\u00a0<strong>30vol*<\/strong>\u00a0+ 30ml 8 Natural + 10ml 8 Violet<\/p>\n<p>*30vol lifts 2\u20133 levels<\/p>\n<p>Explanation: When working with\u00a0fine\u00a0hair, use the lowest volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will\u00a0neutralize\u00a0the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is fine and porous, the hair will more readily absorb the cool tone. Using primarily natural in the formula will soften and dilute the violet tone to prevent an over-toned result.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"textbox textbox--examples\">\n<header class=\"textbox__header\">\n<p class=\"textbox__title\">Example 3<\/p>\n<\/header>\n<div class=\"textbox__content\">\n<p>Hair and colour assessment:<\/p>\n<ul class=\"twocolumn\">\n<li style=\"text-align: left;\">Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral<\/li>\n<li>Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral<\/li>\n<li>Levels of lift required: 3*<\/li>\n<li>Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow<\/li>\n<li>Neutralize or enhance?:\u00a0Neutralize<\/li>\n<li>Texture: Coarse*<\/li>\n<li>Porosity: Resistant*<\/li>\n<li>Elasticity: Good<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Coarse Hair Formula:<\/strong> <strong>40ml\u00a040vol*<\/strong>\u00a0+ 40ml 8 Violet<\/p>\n<p>*40vol lifts 3\u20134 levels<\/p>\n<p>Explanation: When working with\u00a0resistant coarse\u00a0hair, use the higher volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will\u00a0neutralize\u00a0the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is\u00a0coarse, the underlying yellow pigment is likely to be quite strong. In this circumstance, adding a natural into the formula would dilute the necessary neutralizing tone, resulting in a warm outcome.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>Next up, let&#8217;s look at a complete virgin lightening process using oxidative colour.<\/p>\n<h3>Media Attributions<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>All images in this chapter are by A. Magtiza and are under a <a class=\"internal\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/\">CC BY 4.0 Licence<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div class=\"glossary\"><span class=\"screen-reader-text\" id=\"definition\">definition<\/span><template id=\"term_59_193\"><div class=\"glossary__definition\" role=\"dialog\" data-id=\"term_59_193\"><div tabindex=\"-1\"><p>A tool used by stylists for hair colour assessment and formulating<\/p>\n<\/div><button><span aria-hidden=\"true\">&times;<\/span><span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Close definition<\/span><\/button><\/div><\/template><\/div>","protected":false},"author":90,"menu_order":2,"template":"","meta":{"pb_show_title":"on","pb_short_title":"","pb_subtitle":"","pb_authors":[],"pb_section_license":""},"chapter-type":[],"contributor":[],"license":[],"class_list":["post-59","chapter","type-chapter","status-publish","hentry"],"part":56,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/59","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/chapter"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/90"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/59\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":369,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/59\/revisions\/369"}],"part":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/parts\/56"}],"metadata":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapters\/59\/metadata\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"chapter-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/pressbooks\/v2\/chapter-type?post=59"},{"taxonomy":"contributor","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/contributor?post=59"},{"taxonomy":"license","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/opentextbc.ca\/haircolourforhairstylistslevel2\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/license?post=59"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}