Once installed, softeners and other water treatment equipment should be operated and checked to ensure that they are performing as intended. Pre-treatment testing and equipment specifications alone do not ensure that the device’s operation will rectify the problem. Adjustments may be required to ensure the equipment is performing correctly. Each piece of equipment will have manufacturers’ installation, startup, and troubleshooting information, and it is important to consult this literature as it may be particular to the device. Many of the points that follow in this chapter have been taken from NOVO® literature and, as much as possible, are meant to be generalized examples only. Always consult the specific manufacturer’s literature for startup and commissioning procedures.

Softeners

Once plumbed and tested for leaks, the softener can be put into service. The startup points covered will be specific to softeners with digitally metered valves, as the clock-type are considered outdated.

1. Manually add water to the brine tank until there is approximately 1 inch (25 mm) of water above the grid plate or, in absence of a grid plate, until the water depth is 3 inches (75 mm). Do not add salt to the brine tank yet.
2. Purge air from the unit by initiating a manual regeneration process. This will start the unit in the “backwash” cycle. Open the bypass inlet valve very slowly until there is a steady stream of water to the drain. Opening the bypass inlet too quickly could result in resin being expelled from the unit and into the plumbing lines. With the valve in the backwash position the unit will purge air from the system, sending it to the drain. Once any “spurting” of air ceases, open the bypass inlet valve fully.
3. Advance the controls to the “refill” position and operate the controls until there is the required level as specified in step 1 (consult manufacturer’s instructions).
4. Return the controls to the “service” position and slowly open the bypass outlet valve.
5. Assuming the unit has been sized by the process as explained in learning task 2, enter the date, time of day, number of persons in the house, and compensated hardness value. Do not adjust the factory salt setting.
6. Depending on manufacturer, there may be choices of water source such as “municipal”  (clean) or “well” (dirty), as well as variable start times, with 2am being the default start time for most manufacturers. As well, NOVO® has a “Smart Clean” setting that ensures the softener is operated once a week so that, in periods of inactivity, the resin bed is “fluffed” and kept from settling and compacting (“cementing”) which would render it inoperative.
7. Add 80 to 100 pounds (36 to 45 kg) of salt to the brine tank. The unit will automatically fill the water to the correct level when it regenerates.

The unit is now ready to regenerate at the appropriate time.

If the water source is not municipal water and contains up to 2.0 mg/l/ppm of ferrous (clear water) iron and/or up to .75 mg/l/ (ppm) of manganese, extra equipment and setup will be required to prevent the resin bed from becoming plugged. Consult the specific manufacturers for their recommendations.

Once the softener and any extra components to it are installed, a water sample should be taken from the sample cock immediately downstream of the softener on the day following a regeneration cycle. Using the same test equipment and procedures as explained in learning task 2, the resulting hardness should be checked to ensure the softener is operating properly. A reading of between 0 and 0.5 gpg indicates that there is virtually no hardness left in the finished water. A sampling and testing should also be done the evening before the next regeneration cycle to ensure there is no hardness slippage (exhaustion of soft sodium ions). A hardness level above the results taken the day after regeneration would mean that the settings need to be checked and adjustments to them made.

Manganese Greensand Iron Filter

Setup procedures for a manganese greensand filter are very similar to those for a softener. The media tank and control head may, for some manufacturers, be used for either application, with the control settings and solution tank being the only differences.  Once the filter and potassium permanganate solution tank are installed as per manufacturer’s specifications, the control valve must be programmed to operate as a greensand filter which has settings that differ from those for a softener, such as a 4-day regeneration interval rather than 3-days for a softener. Like the softeners, the filter tank is set to the backwash cycle and the inlet valve is opened slowly to prevent losing any media, and the flow to the drain is observed. Once there is a steady stream to the drain, which may appear milky white for a short time, the inlet valve is opened fully and flow rate to the drain is checked using a bucket and stopwatch. An adequate backwash is critical to properly clean the Greensand media and prevent it from cementing together. For this reason, greensand filters usually require a minimum inlet pressure of 20 psi (140 kPa). Once the stream to the drain is clear and free of air, the controls are cycled to the “rinse” position for roughly five minutes or until the water to the drain is once again clear. The control can now be set to the “service” position and the outlet valve opened fully. A faucet near the filter, preferably one with no aerator, such as a bathtub or laundry tub, is opened and flow is observed until the water runs clear.

Potassium permanganate tanks are smaller and built differently than the brine tanks for softeners. Approximately one 5-pound (2.25 kg) jug of solution is all that is needed every 3-4 months. Add the required amount to the tank and ensure the control valve has a fresh battery installed so that the programming won’t be lost due to a power failure.

Just as in the checking of softeners, a water sample should be taken immediately downstream of the greensand filter the morning after and the evening before the filter regenerates. Iron readings should be within acceptable parameters and any differences between them should be investigated and remedied as per manufacturers’ instructions.

Chemical-Free Iron Filter

With inlet and outlet valves closed, the unit is powered and set to the “backwash” position and the inlet valve is opened slowly. The flow to the drain is observed until all air has been purged and the flow is clear, usually taking 3 to 4 minutes. Power to the unit is then unplugged, and with the inlet valve now fully opened, flow is allowed to the drain for 30 minutes. The power cord is then plugged back in and the control is set to a manual regeneration, which will start the backwash cycle. The control is then advanced to the “brine” (air draw) position and allowed to complete that cycle. The valve will then automatically advance to the “service” position and the outlet valve can now be opened fully. The unit is then programmed according to the specific manufacturer. Some units need only the current date and time settings and will regenerate every 4 days or 600 gallons (2730 litres) on average.

Downstream sampling at the same intervals as softeners and greensand filters will determine that the unit is working as expected.

Reverse Osmosis Units

RO units have no controllers and need no programming. After installing the unit as per manufacturer’s instructions, turn on the incoming cold water at the supply stop. Check the system for leaks and tighten/push in any fittings as necessary. If the RO system supplies a refrigerator/icemaker, make sure the ice maker is off, i.e., allow no water to flow to it until flushing is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. The piping connecting the RO to an icemaker system should have an in-line valve installed so it can easily be isolated. The RO tank must be allowed to fill up fully for the icemaker system to work properly.

At this point, if equipped with a booster pump where house system pressure is inadequate, the power supply to the unit is plugged in. Next, open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly). After water trickles out of the faucet, close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 4 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Ensure the ball valve on the RO storage tank is open. During the fill period, water may be heard trickling to the drain due to the reverse osmosis process.

After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet and empty the tank completely to remove carbon particles from the final filter. The tank can be observed to be empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is again down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can now be used for drinking. Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. Product water rarely requires testing after installation if filters and membranes are installed as per manufacturers’ instructions.

Ultraviolet Sterilizers

With piping into and out of the unit installed as per manufacturer’s instructions, the quartz sleeve and mercury vapour lamp can be installed. Ultraviolet lamp and quartz sleeve are easily damaged, therefore avoid touching the sides of either the quartz sleeve or lamp. Handle them by the ends only. The sleeve and lamp are inserted into the housing and held in place and sealed by O-rings and aluminum nuts. Install these to hand-tight first and when satisfied that proper alignment has been achieved, tighten further being careful to not over-tighten. Next, turn on the water supplying the UV unit and check for leaks, repairing any if necessary. Then, plug the ballast cord into an electrical outlet which should be protected by a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) and run water through the unit for 5-10 minutes.

Before using the system, it should be sanitized by adding ½ to 1 cup of bleach to the pre-filter, or by shocking the well and sanitizing the entire piping system as laid out later in this chapter. For badly contaminated piping or piping with sediment or scale, this procedure may need to be repeated to kill all bacteria downstream of the UV unit upon start‐up.

Finally, turn on the UV lamp. Most units will have a green light on the ballast which means the UV  lamp is operating normally and water flowing through the UV unit is sterilized. If the ballast light is red, this means the lamp is not operating as it should and water flow should be stopped until the problem is corrected. If the lamp has burned out, there should be an alarm in addition to the red light. There may also be a solenoid valve installed to automatically stop flow if there is a problem with the bulb. Most units will have an audible alarm to indicate that there is a problem.

If a UV unit is required, the well water should be tested at least annually, and water samples from interior faucets should also be tested at intervals recommended by the manufacturer and local health authority to ensure the unit is working properly.

Plumbing System Cleanup

A household’s plumbing system and water-using appliances that have been exposed to contaminated water must be cleaned or contamination will continue to be a problem, even after a new water treatment system is installed. The following are descriptions of procedures used when equipment has been installed to correct iron and bacteria issues.

For Iron Issues:

Toilet Tanks

Pour a small amount of a stain remover, such as “Iron-Rid®” or “Super Iron-Out®” into the flush tank of the toilet. It chemically changes the rust into a clear, soluble state. Let it dissolve, then slightly depress the flush lever to let some of the solution out, so that the water outlet – ports around the flush rim of the bowl get cleaned. Let the mixture stand overnight and flush to drain in the morning. If iron deposits or stains remain, repeat the procedure until the toilet tank is clean.

Water Heater

Gas water heater: make note of the temperature setting on gas valve, then turn to “pilot”.

Electric water heater: Shut off breaker switch on main fuse panel.

Turn the valve off on the cold water supply to the heater. Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve, then open the valve so water will drain to a safe location.

Next, open one or two hot water faucets in the house to provide air so the tank can drain properly. Once the tank is completely empty, turn on the cold water inlet valve for 30 seconds to stir up any sediment which has collected at the bottom of the tank. Then let the sediment run to drain. Repeat this 3 or 4 times or until water runs clear. Check this periodically by catching some water in a small white container. When water runs clear, close the drain valve, then let the heater fill with water until it starts to run out of the open hot water faucets. Now, close the hot water faucets.

Gas water heater: reset gas control valve to original temperature setting.

Electric water heater: turn breaker switch back on at the fuse panel.

Repeat the above procedure at least twice during the first 6 months after installing new water treatment equipment, and more often if you have an older water heater. If the water heater does not clean out after several attempts, it should probably be replaced.

Note: If a “rotten egg” smell occurs in hot water, there is likely a reaction between sulphates that may be present in the water, and the metal of the anode. Close the cold water inlet valve to the hot water tank, drain about a gallon of water from the drain valve and remove the anode rod from the tank’s top. Pour half a gallon of household bleach into the tank and let stand for one hour before draining the tank. Reinstall a zinc or aluminum-zinc alloy anode rod, rather than a magnesium one, open the cold water inlet valve and refill the tank. If the problem persists, the water system should have a chlorinator installed.

Washing Machine and Dishwasher

With the machine empty, add 6 ounces of stain remover instead of soap. Run the machine through a normal cycle. Repeat the process is necessary. Also, if installed, clean out the sediment screen at the water inlet fitting on the machine’s water pump.

Faucet Screens and Aerators

Remove and clean any crud or rust particles from all faucet screens and aerators. They should then stay clean indefinitely.

Old Bypass Valves

If rusty water shows up anywhere after the above clean up has been done, check for the possibility of a defective bypass valve that may still be plumbed in the lines where an old water softener or iron filter may have been. Remove the bypass if it is not required.

For Bacteria Issues:

How to Disinfect (Sanitize) a Well and Water System: Overview

When bacterial contamination has been detected, the entire system must be “shocked” by super chlorination and then flushed. Use ordinary liquid laundry bleach to shock chlorinate the water system. From available information such as the table shown below, determine how much bleach to use, then pour the bleach down the well and circulate it through the entire water distribution system. Wait 6 – 12 hours for the chlorine to work, then flush the chlorinated water from the well and pipes. Retest the water after 2-3 days.

Step-by-Step Instruction for Shocking (Super Chlorination)

1. Create an opening at the top of the well to pour in the chlorine solution. Well caps vary and this step may be easier for some wells than others.

• If a flat or domed cap on top of a well with no pipes sticking up out of it, unbolt the cap and remove it.
• If pipes protrude from the well cap, do not remove any bolts! The bolts pull the bottom plate toward the top plate, compressing the rubber piece between them to create the seal. If the bolts are removed, the bottom plate will drop down into the well. In addition, the weight of the pump may be resting on the cap, and if the cap is removed, the pump may drop down into the well. The best option is to use the vent pipe opening. If this short gooseneck piping can be removed, the chlorine solution can be poured through the opening into the well.

2. Determine the amount of bleach needed. An initial chlorine concentration of 50 to 100 parts per million (ppm) is recommended. To estimate how much bleach to use for this concentration, use the table below based on the well diameter and depth of water in the well. Note: Do not use the total depth of the well. The depth of water is the distance from the water level to the bottom of the well. This information should be found in the well log.

Table 1 below is a rough guideline for chlorine to be added to a well, given the well’s diameter and the depth of water within it.

Table 1 – Amount of ordinary chlorine laundry bleach required to shock a well (to approximately 100 ppm) based on well diameter and water depth (in U.S. units)

3. Make sure to use the right type of chlorine bleach. Use plain liquid laundry bleach (“Clorox”®, “Purex”®, or a generic brand). Do not use bleach with additives or special scents. The label should indicate “sodium hypochlorite” and the concentration should be about 5% – 6%.
4. Dilute the bleach. Use 2 cups or less per 2-gallon bucket of water and be sure to add the chlorine to the water. 100% chlorine can corrode metal well parts.
5. Pour the diluted chlorine bleach solution down the well. Wear rubber gloves, use protective eyewear and be careful not to splash on clothes or skin.
6. Mix the chlorine and well water by first attaching a hose to a faucet near the well and running the water until chlorine can be detected by smell. If chlorine isn’t smelled within a few minutes, add some more before circulating the water. Then, direct the water from the hose back down into the top of the well, again possibly through the vent opening. Allow the water to circulate in this manner for 5 minutes.
7. Make sure the system is chlorinated by opening each fixture’s faucets one at a time and let water run until chlorine can be smelled. Be sure to run hot water faucets to draw chlorine into the water heater. This will take some time depending on the size of the heater. If after a reasonable period of time you don’t smell chlorine, add more diluted bleach solution as in step 6 and circulate with the hose again.
8. Once chlorine has been detected at each outlet, hold the chlorine in the pipes for 6 – 12 hours. Don’t use the water! (A few toilet flushes are O.K.)
9. Remove chlorinated water from well and pipes. Connect a hose to the furthest faucet in the house and run it outdoors until you no longer smell chlorine. Be careful with this water – don’t use it on plants or allow it to discharge into fish habitat. Next, try to attach a hose to each faucet if possible and run it outside, or catch faucet water into a bucket and dispose outside into gravel if possible. Admit as little chlorine water as possible into a drainage system that runs to a septic tank, as chlorine can have a negative effect on the anaerobic bacteria that allow the tank to work properly. Less chlorine into the tank is better.
10. About 3 days later, test for coliform bacteria. Do not consume the water until you receive “clean” test results.

In summary, all newly installed water treatment devices should:

• Be installed as per manufacturers’ specific installation instructions and local code requirements
• Be tested for leaks, correcting any if found
• Be commissioned as per manufacturers’ startup instructions
• Be checked for correct operation by monitoring finished product water at points and intervals recommended by the manufacturer
• Have operational adjustments made if necessary, and
• Be registered with the manufacturer, either by the homeowner or installer, to ensure   conformance to warranty requirements

Now complete Self-Test 7 and check your answers.

Self-Test 7