Chapter 4 – Lightening Virgin Hair and Regrowth

4.4 Bleaching Products

Characteristics of bleaching products:

  • Ability to lift more than 4 levels
  • Lift only, may require toning service
  • May require a different formula for each zone to ensure an even result

Formulating

When using a bleach product to lighten, it is important to note that the volume of the developer does not determine the levels of lift. Rather, it determines the speed of lift. The alkalinity will increase with your volume of developer, so you must keep in mind the affect that your bleaching product will have on the hair structure and integrity.

You must consider the hair zones in the formulation stage of a global bleach application. This is notably different from the procedure when using an oxidative colour produce, which generally requires just one formula.

Let’s take a look at how to formulate one zone at a time:

Zone 1 is regrowth, zone 2 is midlength, and zone 3 is ends.

  • Zone 1, or the regrowth area, is the area of the hair within the first ½ to ¾ inch from the scalp. In Zone 1, the heat from the scalp encourages the hair to process more quickly. Keep this in mind when choosing your developer strength. Use the general guidelines for hair texture—fine hair is generally easier to lift, while coarse hair may be more resistant.
  • Zone 2, or the mid-lengths, is the area of the hair between Zone 1 and the more porous ends. Because the area does not have the advantage of body heat to help it process, you may need a stronger volume of developer than you will use on the roots. Again, keep in mind how texture affects the lifting process when choosing your developer and product.
  • Zone 3, or the more porous ends, will generally require the gentlest bleach formula. These porous ends will lift more quickly than the mid-lengths and will need care to prevent damage to the hair structure. Not everyone will have a Zone 3—in this case, use the same formula that was used on the mid-lengths.

Let’s summarize what we have learned about formulating for lift by looking at some examples of bleach product formulas:

Example 1

Hair and colour assessment:

  • Existing level and tone: 5 neutral
  • Target level and tone: 9 neutral/cool
  • Levels of lift required: 4
  • Underlying pigment: pale yellow
  • Texture: fine*
  • Porosity: zones 1 and 2: average; zone 3: porous
  • Elasticity: good

Formulas:

  • Zone 1: 40ml 20vol + on scalp cream lightener
  • Zone 2: 40ml 20vol + off scalp powder lightener
  • Zone 3: 40ml 10vol + off scalp powder lightener

Explanation:

  • Zone 1: Heat from the scalp will facilitate processing. Fine hair is easier to lift. Use a gentle cream lightener option with 20 volume, as the porosity is average.
  • Zone 2: Switch to an off-scalp powder lightener for added strength, while keeping the 20 volume developer. Fine hair is easier to lift.
  • Zone 3: Porous ends require more care. Drop the developer down to 10 volume.

Example 2

Hair and colour assessment:

  • Existing level and tone: 5 neutral
  • Target level and tone: 9 neutral/cool
  • Levels of lift required: 4
  • Underlying pigment: pale yellow
  • Texture: coarse*
  • Porosity: Resistant throughout
  • Elasticity: good

Formulas:

  • Zone 1: 40ml 30vol + on scalp cream lightener
  • Zone 2: 40ml 30vol + off scalp powder lightener

Explanation: Coarse hair with resistant porosity will require a higher level of developer than fine hair. This client will likely require a second application to reach their target level and tone, if the hair condition allows.

Note: Many colour lines contain lightening powders that can be used on or off the scalp. These are instead differentiated by levels of lift, or speed of lift, and likely vary in alkalinity or ammonia levels. When using these lightening products, consider how pH levels affect the hair and use the appropriate strength of product. (For example, where there is a suggestion to use an off-scalp powder lightener, use your colour line’s gentler option.)

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Hair Colour for Hairstylists: Level 2 Copyright © 2021 by Arden Magtiza is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, except where otherwise noted.

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