Chapter 7 – Corrective Colour
7.1 Hair Analysis
As with any service in the salon, a colour correction begins with a thorough consultation and hair analysis to determine:
- Existing level and tone
- Target level and tone
- Texture, porosity, and elasticity
When performing a consultation for a colour correction, we must also determine:
- What is the client’s detailed colour history?
- Is the current colour oxidative or non-oxidative?
- Is the current colour professional-salon colour or box colour?
Knowing the client’s colour history will allow you to determine how many layers of colour are present and what is hiding underneath. As you can imagine, one layer of professional dark colour over previous blonde will be much easier to remove than multiple layers of dark box colour.
Speaking of box colour, stylists have many opinions on the disadvantages, but is it actually so “bad”?
When you look on the side of a box of permanent drug store colour, you will see that it shows the results at multiple levels. This indicates that it is formulated to lift and deposit on various levels, making it a one-size-fits-all solution. For a product to have this range of results means it is higher in alkalinity than a professional colour line. Those who purchase box colour wishing only to go darker likely do not understand that this high ammonia colour is causing unnecessary damage to their hair strand.
Many box colours also contain progressive dyes. This means with every layer, the colour will become increasingly darker and harder to remove, resulting in a reverse ombré effect, where the roots may be a medium brown, but the ends have taken on a dull, almost black appearance.
Box colours also typically contain additives, such as metallic salts and sometimes even henna, that bond to the keratin in the cortex and are likely to chemically react with professional hair colour products and/or wreak havoc on the hair.
The hair analysis and consultation will also help to determine whether we will be performing a tint-back, or a decolourization service. When we talk about corrective colour services, we must consider both sides of the spectrum. Is the hair too light or too dark? In the next section we will cover both extremes, beginning with what to do if the hair is too light and/or an undesirable tone.
The darkness or lightness of colour in relationship to other colours.
The shade or hue.
The diameter of the hair strand. Texture can be described as fine, medium, or coarse.
The hair's ability to absorb moisture or chemicals.
The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original shape without snapping.
Colouring products that require a developing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, to oxidize and introduce colour molecules into the hair strand.
Colouring products that do not require the use or mixing of a developing agent such as hydrogen peroxide.