Chapter 4 – Lightening Virgin Hair and Regrowth
4.2 Oxidative Permanent and High-Lift
Characteristics of oxidative permanent and high-lift colour products:
- Ability to lift up to 4 levels
- Lift and deposit tone in one process
- One formula will produce an even result throughout the hair
Formulating
Below is a review of how many levels of lift can generally be expected with each volume of developer:
| Levels of lift | ||
|---|---|---|
| Permanent
1:1 mixing ratio |
High-lift
2:1 mixing ratio |
|
| 10vol | 0–1 | / |
| 20vol | 1–2 | / |
| 30vol | 2–3 | 2–3 |
| 40vol | 3–4 | 3–4 |
Let’s summarize what we have learned so far about formulating for lift by looking at some examples of oxidative colour formulas and using the underlying pigment chart and colour wheel below:
Example 1
Hair and colour assessment:
- Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral
- Target level (TL) and tone: 7 natural copper
- Levels of lift required: 2*
- Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow-orange
- Neutralize or enhance?: Enhance
- Porosity: average
- Elasticity: good
Fine hair formula: 40ml 20vol* + 20ml 7 Natural + 20ml 7 Copper
*20vol lifts 1–2 levels
Explanation: When working with fine hair, use the minimum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will enhance the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.
Coarse hair formula: 40ml 30vol* + 25ml 7 Natural + 15ml 7 Copper
*30vol lifts 2–3 levels
Explanation: When working with coarse hair, use the maximum volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Copper will enhance the yellow-orange underlying pigment, and the natural will balance the warmth for a softer result.
Note: For the course-hair formula, the amount of natural has increased slightly in relation to the amount of copper. This is because coarse hair generally has a stronger underlying pigment and therefore does not need as much enhancing tone.
Example 2
Hair and colour assessment:
- Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral
- Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral
- Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow
- Levels of lift required: 3*
- Neutralize or enhance?: Neutralize
- Texture: Fine*
- Porosity: Extreme*
- Elasticity: Good
Fine Hair Formula: 40ml 30vol* + 30ml 8 Natural + 10ml 8 Violet
*30vol lifts 2–3 levels
Explanation: When working with fine hair, use the lowest volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will neutralize the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is fine and porous, the hair will more readily absorb the cool tone. Using primarily natural in the formula will soften and dilute the violet tone to prevent an over-toned result.
Example 3
Hair and colour assessment:
- Existing level (XL) and tone: 5 neutral
- Target level (TL) and tone: 8 neutral
- Levels of lift required: 3*
- Underlying Pigment (at TL): yellow
- Neutralize or enhance?: Neutralize
- Texture: Coarse*
- Porosity: Resistant*
- Elasticity: Good
Coarse Hair Formula: 40ml 40vol* + 40ml 8 Violet
*40vol lifts 3–4 levels
Explanation: When working with resistant coarse hair, use the higher volume of developer required to achieve the desired levels of lift. Violet will neutralize the yellow underlying pigment (complimentary tones). Because the hair is coarse, the underlying yellow pigment is likely to be quite strong. In this circumstance, adding a natural into the formula would dilute the necessary neutralizing tone, resulting in a warm outcome.
Next up, let’s look at a complete virgin lightening process using oxidative colour.
Media Attributions
- All images in this chapter are by A. Magtiza and are under a CC BY 4.0 Licence.
A tool used by stylists for hair colour assessment and formulating